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Paul J. Johnson
Moderator
Username: Paul_j
Post Number: 1
Registered: 08-2003
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, February 17, 2007 - 01:20 pm: | 
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I have a photo request, particularly from those of you in the Australia/Oceania regions. In the preparation of some upcoming lectures, I would like to find and borrow some decent shots of three beetles that are orchid pests. Photos of their damage to orchids are sought, also. Available images on the Internet are generally unsatisfactory. Full credit will be given for any images. The critters of interest are: Stethopachys formosa (Dendrobium beetle), Xylosandrus compactus (black twig borer), and Orchidophilus peregrinator (lesser orchid weevil).
Thanks
Paul} |
Thanasis Charalampopoulos
Member
Username: Biothanasis
Post Number: 35
Registered: 01-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, February 12, 2007 - 03:32 am: |
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Hello everybody,
Well i 've read that it is usefull to use a fungiside once a month (or more) so as to prenevt infections, such as physan20, but there no such things to Greece...  Could anyone suggest something else instead? For example, is blue stone (disolved in water) good enough? And by which occasions should (the fungi- or bacterialside) be used? Can it be used to prevent infection or only after infection?
Any help is aprreciated... 
Thank you in advance...
Regards,Thanasis |
Thanasis Charalampopoulos
Junior Member
Username: Biothanasis
Post Number: 12
Registered: 01-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, January 17, 2007 - 12:29 am: |
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WEE and Lars,
Thank you very much for the instructions and advice...
You've been very very HELPFUL to me...
Thank you again...
I am very glad to have joined this forum... |
Graeme Talbot
New Member
Username: stumpy
Post Number: 4
Registered: 02-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, August 20, 2006 - 05:07 pm: |
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My clowesia is mounted on a fence Paling, in Winter just a spray once a fortnight should suffice then in summer as much as you want the same with fertilizer. When the new growths appear wait until they are approx 10cm long before watering and then a dose of blood and bone |
Patrick John McAuley
New Member
Username: john_mcauley
Post Number: 1
Registered: 05-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, August 18, 2006 - 09:06 pm: |
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Re the PNG Bulbophyllum aff. elephantinum, } as per the image in the Orchidspng website. Can anybody assist by supplying cultural, or climate information such as where and how it grows etc. I can find no reference apart from the photo in the above mentioned website. Thanks John McAuley, Sydney Australia. |
CORBIN FLETCHER
New Member
Username: corbinlkld
Post Number: 8
Registered: 04-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, August 13, 2006 - 03:19 am: |
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Shermanso…
Although epsom salt has some beneficial properties, to Orchids it will not help induce flowering.
Corbin Fletcher
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Sherman So
New Member
Username: shermanso
Post Number: 3
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, August 13, 2006 - 02:17 am: |
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I was searching through the internet, and came across an article saying that epsom salt will help to induce flower bud in phalaenopsis. Any comment? |
Sherman So
New Member
Username: shermanso
Post Number: 2
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, July 23, 2006 - 12:43 am: |
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Few of my phal recently lost two or three leaves. The roots looked o.k. Could anyone help? |
CORBIN FLETCHER
New Member
Username: corbinlkld
Post Number: 7
Registered: 04-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, July 14, 2006 - 10:13 pm: |
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Yes, Sherman So
This is quite a common occurrence…this is advantageous growth. It is producing a copy of it’s self. Commonly called ‘kieki’.
Waite until the kieki has two or three roots about two inches long, cut it from the spike and pot it up.
(Message edited by CORBINLKLD on July 14, 2006)
(Message edited by CORBINLKLD on July 14, 2006) |
Sherman So
New Member
Username: shermanso
Post Number: 1
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, July 14, 2006 - 01:00 pm: |
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One of the phalaenopsis developed what appeared a (flower) spike It is about an inch long now. The tip of the spike now start to develope leaf. Have any one see this before? |
Monica Jae
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, October 08, 2004 - 01:23 pm: |
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ahh
oh yeah, there's the date 
(Message edited by monicajae on October 07, 2004) |
Stephen Kemp
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, October 06, 2004 - 11:34 am: |
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Roy posted this almost 12 months ago when the OGD was going through one of its many exchanges between parties of differing views (to put it mildly)
Cheers...Steve
(Message edited by stephen on October 05, 2004) |
Monica Jae
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, October 06, 2004 - 11:23 am: |
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Roy, sick of OGD comments? I'm confused... |
Stephen Kemp
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, October 06, 2004 - 10:26 am: |
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Melissa
What you have is called a "keiki" or aerial growth. This is not uncommon if something occurs which might interfer with normal flowering. When the keiki reaches a certain size with sufficient root growth, you can remove it and have yourself a new plant. You can find info about this on the web, such as:
http://www.easyorchids.co.uk/propagation/keiki/Propagation_by_keiki.html
In fact if you use Google or any other search engine, just search on phalaenopsis keiki and you will find plenty of links.
Cheers...Steve |
melissa Baumann
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, October 06, 2004 - 10:05 am: |
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I recently repotted a Phal. I did this after it had bloomed and I had cut back the spike.
Now I have a new plant (leaves and all) that has sprouted where a new flower spike should be.
What do I do?
Thanks |
Sulistyono
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, September 06, 2004 - 01:05 pm: |
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Does anyone knows about the hybrid between Dendrobium X Cadetia?
Thanks,
Sulist' |
Fred Freeloader
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, December 07, 2003 - 08:07 am: |
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Quote:
"I've found you have to be careful about when you commence watering/feeding D. teretifolia. Too soon and it seems to produce new growths rather than inflorescences. Aussie orchids prefer weak feeding and many growers use low nitrogen fertiliser."
This may be something I need to watch much more closely. With D. teretifolium I have not been critical about the timing of restricting feeding.
I've put it back into the "cool" room along with D. kingianum for this winter to give it cooler night temps.
I'm resisting using supplemental lighting because of the accompanying inconveniences that go with using sufficiently bright sources in-home. I've seen one potential solution. A product called Envirolite. Supposedly, they have a 125 watt compact fluorescent that may be bright enough to be effective as a light source. I'm still a bit skeptical about their claims for light output. I need to look into it further.
Thx.
FF
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Stephen Kemp
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, December 05, 2003 - 10:28 am: |
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Dockrillia linguiformisis one of those orchids that some people find extremely difficult to grow well while others can grow and flower it without effort. I know of growers who can grow the most difficult of Aussie species unable to grow this species.
Having seen this one in situ almost all my life - well ever since I was conscious of it as an orchid - it grows on rocks close to water courses and receiving mainly bright early morning sun. It is also known to grow on trees. I have seen some robust clones growing on rocks in moderate shade around the Sydney area but the better flowering ones appreciate higher light levels inducing the red effect you mentioned.
From my own experience, they like to be kept on the drier side with moisture provided by the mount and/or air. They grow best for me on hardwood mounts hung high in my bushhouse. They are prone to scale that infest mainly the base of the leaves.
Cheers
Steve
Sydney, Australia |
Peter Fowler
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, December 05, 2003 - 09:12 am: |
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I have grown D. teretifolia for a number of years and it flowers every year. A friend of mine has 2 forms. I have a D. linguforme which last flowered well 3 years ago. I am not aware of doing anything different to it , but it will not flower again. It covers a piece of cork bark 8 X 4 inch. The leaves do not have that red sheen they normally have. Maybe they even need more light?
Any suggestions welcomed. |
Stephen Kemp
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, December 05, 2003 - 07:41 am: |
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I think the answer does lie in the lighting. Dockrillia wassellii comes from North Australia (tropical zone) so it would be used to close to 12 hrs of daylight year round and requires warmth in winter (min. 10 degrees C).
D. pugioniformis has few green flowers which can be hard to spot. Try looking closely at your plant this spring. But it would also respond to longer days and supplemental lighting. In its native habitat its winter day length would be about 9-10 hours. D. teretifolia has many forms and has quite a large range. Supplemental lighting would probably suit it too. The best specimens of this I've seen over here (3m or more long; covered in flowers)are the ones grown in the garden under a tree. I've found you have to be careful about when you commence watering/feeding D. teretifolia. Too soon and it seems to produce new growths rather than inflorescences. Aussie orchids prefer weak feeding and many growers use low nitrogen fertiliser. One brand of commonly used Aussie fertiliser, Horticultural Solutions (or HSO), has a native orchid formula with NPK of 8:5:12.
Here is one web page with cultural info that works for one grower in Brisbane but they would get around 11 hours of winter daylight:
http://www.users.bigpond.com/gmcorbin/bos/DenTeretifolium.html
Cheers
Steve |
Fred Freeloader
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, December 04, 2003 - 07:37 pm: |
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Well, my spring bloom is about to get an early start. Den. pendulum and a couple of Nobile hybrids are beginning to form buds. I'm being reminded that there are a few of my dendrobiums that resist blooming no mater what I try.
I am a windowsill grower. I've been able to provide conditions to allow the following Dendrobium species to bloom profusely and regularly for me.
D.'s amethystoglossum, anosmum, aphyllum, bellatulum, crepidatum, crystallinum, devonianum, gratiosissimum, kingianum, parishii, pendulum, primulinum, pulchellum and transparens. There are a few others that bloom, but not as happily as the foregoing species.
Then, there are a few that resist all coaxing to get them to bloom at all. They have grow quite luxurious with foliage and are getting to be quite large plants, but no blossoms yet from any of them. They seem to fall into two main groups.
The first is the "ever-growing" group of Den.s: crysanthum, falconeri and hainanense.
the second grouping is the Dockrillias: pugioniforme, teretifolium and wassellii.
From everything I can find out about these six species and their habitat information, they should respond to the conditions being provided for those that do produce flowers for me, at least half-heartedly, anyway.
I have tried rest period night temps ranging from about 40*F(4*C)to near 65*F(18*C). I've tried from light to severe drought conditions. The only thing I have not tried is supplemental lighting.
I'm beginning to think the problem may be my short winter day length up here. Right now we're down to about 4-1/2 to 5 hours of sun-up.
Is there anyone out there who has had success with blooming any of these Den.'s who may be able to advise me on what I need to do to get these to bloom?
Thx,
FF
(Message edited by freeloader on December 04, 2003) |
Roy Lee
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, November 24, 2003 - 10:17 pm: |
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Hello all, I have just purchased some Paph species. Two I never thought i would ever own. I am looking for some tips in growing them successfully for about six months or so until my new house is completed. P.rothschildianum and P.praestans are the two most concerned with. It`s good summer is here, but just incase the cold arrives before the house is ready. The praestans is flowering size, the roth` 16" leaf span.
Thanks, Roy Lee
ps. also sick of OGD comments |
Peter Fowler
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, July 25, 2003 - 12:01 am: |
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I have just bought a batch of orchid species from a nursery in the Netherlands.
I am not sure how to grow one of them, Clowesia rosea. I just bought it because I saw a picture of it in one of Dick Warrens newsletters.
Could you please give me habit details and cultural details. (in a greenhouse; south UK.)
Thanks
Peter Fowler
Alton
UK |
